dog training

Do you ask your dog’s permission for handling him?

It takes a little longer at the outset to establish a regime of mutual permission - and this makes all your dog care so much easier!  Brilliant Family Dog is committed to improving the lives of dogs and their harassed owners through books and online

There are things we have to do to our dog. Let’s make them into things we do with our dog!

There’s grooming, hunting for ticks and other beasties, claw-clipping and grinding, perhaps administering eye ointment, drying feet … there’s a lot we have to do to keep our dogs fit and healthy.

So it’s important that you don’t just grab your dog (like vets often do) and inflict “treatment” on them!

I appreciate that vets are always in a hurry. But there are some excellent ones who clear it with the dog first before touching them … and then there are the smash-and-grab ones, who can set up a lifelong fear of the vet in a couple of hasty and ill-considered seconds.

So to get this going smoothly, you need to get buy-in from the dog, and make it easier all-round.

Here’s an excerpt from one of my Growly Dog Books

 

Is it you that’s causing the pain?

The key here is that your dog will associate something with any pain or discomfort he’s feeling. That something he’s latched on to may be the approach of a person holding a broom. It may be entering the vet’s surgery. It may be being manhandled so you can reach his claws. So if you have to administer a treatment which may be uncomfortable, it’s a good idea to get him to associate something else with this pain, and not you!

There are various techniques about that focus on the dog giving you permission to treat him - having him become a party to his own treatment.

Picture this: you go to the dentist for your appointment. While you’re talking to the receptionist, the dentist creeps up on you, grabs your jaw and forces it open to poke instruments in. Horror! This is an assault! And yet isn’t this what people often do to their dogs?

A better scenario would be that you go into the dentist’s surgery. He indicates The Chair. Now when you get into that chair you are effectively giving the dentist permission to open your mouth and start poking about in there. It’s just as unpleasant as before - but this time you gave your consent.

So get your dog to give you consent by transferring the “this may hurt” feelings onto something else. Some people use a pot of treats on the floor. As long as the dog sits or lies still in front of that pot he’ll be given a treat. Gradually you can pick up a paw or start brushing a tail while you dish out the treats. If your dog leaps up and flees, let him. When he ventures back he can choose to station himself in front of the treat pot again. He’s saying, “Ok, you can brush me now”. You could also get out the implements he’s worried about - the nail clippers or the claw-grinder, and perhaps use a particular mat for him to sit on, which you only use for treatments. When he comes to you, you can reward him for his bravery. He knows what’s going to happen - you’re not going to jump him.

If you call your dog over for a cuddle then grab him and swing him over onto his back so you can check his tangles, how’s he going to feel next time you call him?

Choice, choice, choice! Think of that dentist and let your dog have a say in his own care.

📖 Read more here: https://www.brilliantfamilydog.com/growly-boxset📚

And here’s a video of my Border Collie Yannick being introduced to Chirag Patel’s excellent Bucket Game. Note that he is free to come and go and take whatever position he likes.

We moved on quickly after these sessions, and I’m now “allowed” to hold all Yannick’s paws and clip his nails without any of the fear he was showing previously.



Should you ignore your dog?




This is the question I received from a follower recently:

“Most trainers say that you should ignore your dog when you come home and they are happy to see you. Do you agree with this?”

It’s something I hear quite often, so I thought I’d address it here.

And I have to say it’s one of the battier things some so-called dog trainers promulgate.

When you arrive home, in the bosom of your family, and they greet you - the children running to clasp you round the knees, your partner calling out an offer of tea from the kitchen - would you ignore them? 

Would you walk past them, ignore them, see their faces crumpling with confusion? 

 

OF COURSE YOU WOULDN’T!

 

If you’re the slightest bit normal you are enchanted by this warm homecoming, and respond with delight and appreciation.

 

Same for dogs

Cricket is first in the queue for a hug after my trip away

So why on earth would you want to ignore your loving dog, who greets you with delight on your return?

I suspect some people get confused between love and discipline.

If you come home to find your possessions shredded, this is NOT your dog’s fault! He may have been lonely, distressed, bored. He may have smelt you on the object he chose to love to death and just wanted to be near you.

Whatever the reason: who left the dog with access to things you didn’t want him to have? 😳

This is simply a case of mismanagement. Fix that and there will never be any need for you to feel anything but delighted when you arrive home.

I have dogs because I love them, and their genuine pleasure at my return home is always important to me. 

Isn’t it for you too?

Comment below …

If you’re finding it difficult to establish the love and boundaries your dog needs so that you don’t need to worry about separation anxiety or dark deeds while you’re out, check out the books here: www.brilliantfamilydog.com/books 

 

Slow change works well for dogs

Change can come so slowly.

Too slowly for us rushers! We’re always in such a hurry to be in a hurry.

WHY? … But that’s for another day!

We try something once, then say “That doesn’t work!”

And sometimes things don’t seem to change at all. We seem to have been labouring over the same problems - for ever!

But if you look back - honestly look back - you’ll see there has been change.

“The only constant is change” As Heraclitus said, so long ago.  “Everything changes and nothing remains still; you cannot step twice into the same stream.”

Nothing stays the same - it’s always getting better or worse.

So.

This is where we have to take a dispassionate view.

Recordkeeping can be very helpful here. It’s undoubtedly useful, but few people stick to it. It doesn’t suit many people - too much navel-gazing!

But look what people who only see your dog occasionally say!

Perhaps they got all four paws in the stomach last time you met, and now your dog is sitting quietly.

They are impressed, and will tell you so.

Perhaps your dog was on full alert when you met last time, and is now able to mooch about and sniff.

So people feel more relaxed round you, and will let you know by stopping to chat.

Or maybe it was a full-on barking and lunging meltdown they witnessed, and now you have the sense to recognise trigger points and manage the situation so much better - so that your dog can pass this hornèd monster without reacting.

They smile and acknowledge you from a safe distance.

 

Compliments

I remember a lady I didn’t know passing me on the road one day, years ago, with my then challenging puppy who wanted to get everywhere at the speed of light.

“I’ve been watching you,” she said. “You’re doing so well!”

Wasn’t I pleased! And I’d had no idea of her existence while she watched me every day from her kitchen window.

People aren’t all judging us - as we may feel when our dog is acting up.

Most are actually sympathetic.

After all, who’s brought up children without a public tantrum in the supermarket?

Who’s not had to apologise to a neighbour for their small boy’s - shall we say “over-exuberance”? 😳

Who shall cast the first stone?

 

We’re all in the same boat

Relax!

You are doing the best you can.

Your dog is doing the best she can.

Your neighbours are doing the best they can.

It’s all just fine.

And really?

So much better than it was a year ago …

If your dog is of the Growly variety - barking, lunging, terrifying the neighbourhood and making you blush! - take a look at the Growly Dog books you’ll find here: www.brilliantfamilydog.com/books

You really can make a big difference!

How often should I dose my dog?

There are ways to manage pests without poisoning the planet!  Brilliant Family Dog is committed to improving the lives of dogs and their harassed owners through books and online learning, all force-free and dog-friendly! | FREE WORKSHOP | #dogtrainin

Fleas! Ticks! Nasty beasties!

But there’s no need to get hysterical about them. Mankind has lived with them for aeons, so they ain’t disappearing any time soon.

I know that many dog-owners - especially first-time dog-owners - are guilted into signing up with their vet for monthly doses against invertebrates at large.

Monthly doses!

The logic behind this is, apparently, “To be sure, to be sure,” and “Just in case”.

So - do you take a headache pill every morning, just in case you get a headache?

Course you don’t! Most of us are averse to over-medication. Personally, it’s a last resort for me - only if absolutely necessary.

But I can see how this policy can make a nice income for the vet profession, and an even nicer one for the pharmaceutical companies behind it.

So apart from pumping unwanted chemicals into your dog, have a thought about what happens after the dose has washed off or gone through the dog’s system.

Where does the waste go? Into the water system and ultimately the ground. And what lives in the ground?

INSECTS!

Most of them highly valuable to keep our environment stable.

The last thing we need to be doing is using scorched-earth warfare against a few insects at the expense of the many - and ultimately ourselves.

Over 40% of insect species are threatened with extinction. And agro-chemicals including pesticides are a large driver of this decline.

Shockingly, just one spot-on treatment for a medium-sized dog contains enough pesticide to kill 60 million bees. There are estimated to be 15 billion honeybees in the UK, so if you dosed three dogs, that would account for 1% of them.

Think about that.

 

Use as indicated - or when needed?

My (super-healthy, long-lived) dogs and cats are treated only if fleas appear. I do it myself, having chosen a treatment that is not on the dangerous list (see Resources below).

And I only ever use half the recommended dose at most. It works perfectly well.

I’m convinced that the general health of the animal makes them resistant to parasitic invasions, hence they happen seldom here. I make a note of when I treat them. The last two times were 2018 and 2022 - both times when a visiting hedgehog was sniffed and a whole platoon of fleas hopped over.

[Hedgehog fleas can’t actually run their complete cycle on any animal but a hedgehog, so they would eventually have dropped off. But I didn’t want to spend weeks with us all scratching!]

Am I being eccentric?

And you may be thinking that I’m being eccentric or frivolous here. In which case you’ll be glad to know that these long-held opinions of mine are backed up by research.

This Position Statement from the British Small Animal Veterinary Association (BSAVA) is clear. One of their recommendations reads:

Concerns about the possible environmental impacts of small animal parasiticide products should be taken seriously by the veterinary profession, pharmaceutical industry, and animal owners.

“Animal owners” is us. We are part of the problem. We have to play our part in doing something about it.

Overuse can, of course, lead to resistance in the target population - as can be seen in agriculture where these chemicals are widely used.

 

This maybe sums up the BSAVA opinion: 

As part of their responsible prescribing measures, veterinary professionals should avoid blanket treatment and instead risk-assess use of parasiticides for individual animals.

Sledgehammers for nuts, anyone?

 

 

RESOURCES:

BSAVA Position Statements

BVA, BSAVA and BVZS policy position on responsible use of parasiticides for cats and dogs

Guide to Conventional Treatment Options for Fleas and Ticks

Choosing More All-Natural Tick Repellents

More Concerning News Regarding Flea and Tick Products for Companion Dogs and Cats

Worldwide decline of the entomofauna: A review of its drivers

Parasiticide use needs overhaul. Study

 

Got a reactive dog?


It’s a tough time for growly dogs - anxious, shy, fearful, “aggressive” dogs. 

Why?

Because, up in the top half of the planet, it’s been Winter.

And that means short days.

If you have a reactive dog, you’ll know exactly what the significance of this is!

It means there’s fewer hours of daylight for everyone to walk their dogs, therefore it’s much harder to avoid other people and their dogs on walks.

You have my sympathy - I know just what this is like!

 

Meeting or NOT meeting other dogs?

Now, you may be saying, “But how will my dog ever get better if he never meets other dogs?”

And I understand why you may think this.

You may have been given the idea that socialising your dog means exposing him to every dog possible, regardless of his reaction.

But in fact, he needs to learn how to cope with the world without the challenge of a strange dog looming towards him. Only then will he be able to manage passing another dog (or person - whatever it is that worries him, though we’ll stick with “dog” for now, as that’s usually the trigger) and not panic.

Once he has confidence that you will ensure he “never has to meet another dog again”, then he’ll know that there is a choice.

He doesn’t have to shriek and yap and leap about when he sees another dog coming, putting on a fearsome show of teeth, because he has learnt - from you - that you can both move away and not have to confront the oncoming dog.

How calm will that make him feel?

How safe will he feel?

See the dog ahead that Hector is able to avoid! 

No-one wants to go through life feeling scared. And you can help your dog to get braver and stop panicking with a few simple-to-teach techniques and some really useful strategies.

One of the quickest to teach is the Emergency Turn.

You’ll find the steps detailed in my free Masterclass for Growly Dogs here.

And once you’ve discovered the ease and joy of making your walks - even in these busy few hours of light - comfortable and fright-free, you may like to delve further into what I can show you.

That Masterclass will also introduce you to the From Growly Dog to Confident Dog program, with individual coaching and many lessons.

 

And you can get my renowned Growly Dog books direct from the author here

Perhaps you’ll find, like EB and GS here, that you can make a huge difference to your dog walks, your dog’s happiness, and your own peace of mind - with these simple, kind, methods.

“We have been using your approach to training our growly dog now for about 6 months and have seen an incredible difference! We love your kind approach to training our dog. Wow! Your kind, positive methods really work. I can't thank you enough.” EB

“Just wanted to let you know, as a professional dog trainer, I loved your three Growly Dog books.  Have recommended to all my reactive owners as you explain so simply and clearly what they need to learn, without baffling them with science. Just brilliant. I read a lot of books, articles and papers but rarely are they appropriate for pet owners to read and understand so these are just perfect.” GS

My dog’s peeing all over the place!

“My puppy’s peeing all over the place!”

This is a sure sign of a confused puppy. He’s going to pee, and it’s for you to ensure that it all goes where you want it to go.

Housetraining is a management issue - that means that it’s entirely up to you!

And honestly, it’s not hard! You just have to have certain rules in place - mostly rules for yourself! - and the puppy will be happy to fit in with this. They really are willing little souls.

Here’s my Errorless Housetraining Cheatsheet which shows you EXACTLY how to achieve a clean, dry, puppy in the shortest time possible.

I aim to have puppies clean and dry by night as soon as they arrive, at 8 weeks. By day, by 14 weeks latest. This works!

What about the older dog I’ve just rescued?

Good for you! Giving a forever home to a dog who never even lived in a house. But no need to worry. She wants to be clean and dry, just as much as you want her to be. So follow the Cheatsheet and just allow her a little more time between visits outside, cos she can hold it longer.

Otherwise, follow the exact same timetable, the exact same system.

You probably don’t know her history - she may have been punished for eliminating “in the wrong place” in the past. So be fulsome in your excitement and praise when she gets it right - plenty of treats and a game!

Give her time to sniff - it’s often a precursor to a wee or a poo.

But I live in an apartment!

This is where you have to become creative! You can’t be racing down 99 flights of stairs every half hour with your puppy. But that doesn’t mean he can’t become housetrained.

I don’t recommend using paper pads in the house at all. But obviously this would be an exception.

But the key to success is in having a special place for the puppy to go. This needs to be very clearly a special toileting place, with clear boundaries. Pee pads scattered over the floor won’t work. It will also encourage the confused puppy to eliminate on anything he finds on the floor … 😱 😳

I suggest you put the paper pads in some sort of container, like a very large tea tray, something with clearly-defined sides he can hop over to get in. If you’re handy, you can construct a frame from wood or pvc (pipes with elbows perhaps?) which would act as a boundary. Then you can keep it in the bathroom (don’t forget to keep the door propped open!) for ease of access and disposal. Many dogs like to be private, and this would work well for them.

You’ll need to keep the area spotlessly clean, replacing soiled paper with fresh immediately.

Now follow the Cheatsheet, using a lead, and simply take the puppy to your pee place on the suggested schedule.

To teach the pup that outside is the ideal place, you can make excursions downstairs when there’s a bit of time (I.e. not when he’s just woken from a sleep), perhaps after a meal. You may find that placing a bit of used pee pad on the ground will encourage him to know this is an ok place.

As I say, they really do want to do the right thing!

What else do you need to know to make this quick and successful?

If it’s very cold out, be sure to wrap your young puppy up warm, and yourself too! You could be standing about for a good few minutes waiting for the right moment. This is a time investment that will pay off really quickly.

So leave an umbrella and jacket for you and a jumper for him near the back door, so you can get out fast.

You may like to always take the puppy to a particular area of your garden and see if he gets the message that this is The Place!

All in all, remember that this too shall pass. Your puppy will be reliably clean and dry very quickly. Standing out in all weathers to teach her will all pay off!

Have patience, and always include a game with your little pup when she’s done her stuff.

Then it’s fun for you too.