What does my dog see?

On a walk with a non-dog-owning friend recently, my dog froze and stared intently ahead.  

We could see nothing.

So my friend asked, “What’s he staring at?”

This prompted a little dissertation on Vision in the Dog! Perhaps she wished she hadn’t asked by the end of it - but as a multi-cat-owner she was actually very interested. 😊

Dog Vision

The first thing to note is what colours dogs can see.

For us, colour is possibly the first thing we notice. For dogs it has far less importance.

They do see blue and yellow, but the colours aren’t strong. This means that a red toy in green grass is very hard for them to find visually - this is why you’ll see your dog hunting with his nose to locate the item.

Blue or yellow or white or black are much more likely to be spotted by them.

Incidentally, this is why sheepdogs are traditionally black and white. These “colours” are easy to spot at a distance, for us as well as the dogs. Border Collies come in many colours, but bright blue and yellow have not yet appeared as variants!

Altogether the dog’s colour vision is pretty murky.

So what DO dogs see?

Dogs are hunters. And as such, they are attuned to movement. That’s what they see!

We can look at a beautiful vista and see trees, a lake, sky, clouds, grass in the foreground …

Dogs see a bunny twitching his whiskers under a distant tree; a bird landing on a branch; some leaves disturbed by wind or a tiny creature; a grazing animal lifting its head in the field …

As hunters, this is what they need to be able to spot!

Also, dogs are crepuscular.

This means they are most active at dawn and dusk - when their prey is also most active.

Their eyes are adapted to see well in low light. They have something called Tapetum lucidum which reflects what light there is in the eye, and enables them to see well in the dark.

Interestingly, my Border Collie Rollo was afraid of the dark - he couldn’t see well at night. And this is because his eyes were partly blue and he didn’t have this layer of reflective cells behind the retina.  

Dogs’ eyes are perfect for their purpose

So you can see that while dogs’ vision is very different from ours, it’s perfectly suited to what they were designed to do.

Of course, scent is incredibly important too, and 30% of the dog’s brain is devoted to this.

How can you utilise this knowledge now to work with your dog?  

• Find out which colour toys suit him best, close up and at a distance

• Observe what he’s likely to be looking at, rather than say he’s staring, or barking, at nothing. Just because we can’t see it, doesn’t mean it isn’t there!

• Encourage him to use his nose, with scent games, hide and seek, and so on. He’ll find this tiring and most satisfying.

By the way, to tell which animals are hunters and which are prey, follow this nice rhyme: 

Eyes to the front, hunt! Eyes to the side, hide!

It applies to birds as well as mammals.

Sea creatures not so much - the shark has eyes on the side of its head and cannot see immediately in front of its face. But they hunt largely by scent, and close in with a Tapetum lucidum ten times stronger than a cat’s - so they really can see well in deep, dark, waters.

Think of some predators now - cats, small and big; dogs/wolves/foxes - all canids; bears; hawks, owls, vultures; frogs, lizards, some snakes.

And prey - mice, rabbits, all small furries; songbirds; fish.

And for a great way to use your dog’s visual ability, teach him a fantastic retrieve! Here you go: 

Fetch It!
Teach your Brilliant Family Dog to catch, fetch, retrieve, find, and bring things back! (More Skills for a Brilliant Family Dog)

RESOURCES:

Color vision in the dog

Vision in dogs

Counterconditioning doggy fears!

Counterconditioning: IT’S NOT A RACE!

As you may know from personal experience, Counterconditioning and Desensitisation can have marvellous results.

And as you also may know - it takes time!

Don’t be like the reader who told me “I tried that once and it didn’t work”. You need to incorporate it into your daily life with your dog.

You may have read this blogpost of mine from last April:

https://www.brilliantfamilydog.com/blog/do-you-ask-your-dogs-permission-for-handling-him

which explains what to do. In this case I was faced with a fearful dog who did not like his feet being touched at all.

We’ve slowly moved on, just a small bit at a time, and now I am allowed to clip AND grind both Yannick’s front feet!

For the first time he allowed himself to be upended on my lap, when previously it was like trying to wrestle a clawed dragon. He’s since shown that he’d prefer to stay on the ground, so that’s where we do ‘em.

So … we got there in the end!

Smash and Grab!

I was shocked to see a dog trainer’s website recently . . . well, she calls herself a “dog behaviourist, Reactivity and Aggression Specialist” but shows NO qualifications whatever.

Coco steps forward to take his meds

And she said, as one of her benefits, "No need for bulk buying sessions rarely more than two needed"

I dread to think how she transforms a reactive, fearful, and aggressive dog in TWO SESSIONS.

I think we can guess. 😳 💥

And I, for one, am happy to take as long as it takes to bring my dog with me and change his experience of the world for the better.

Want to get started with this?

You can certainly start with The Bucket Game, as shown in the video in this post on treating your dog with respect.

Or you can go much deeper in From Growly Dog to Confident Dog.

Take a look at our free Masterclass for Growly Dogs to get you started!

Can your dog bounce back?

It’s a mark of resilience if your dog can look at something he previously found worrying, say “Ho-hum,” and move on.

This is what’s happening in this image above.

Yannick is very worried about strange dogs. Here at this lovely beach we had plenty of space to study the three people and two Shepherds (one a bouncy pup), decide they were not dangerous, and move on.

You’ll see below the moment he decided to turn away.

By the way, this is Leslie McDevitt’s brilliant Look at That! which is a lifesaver for reactive, shy, anxious, “aggressive”, dogs. You can see a video of it in action here. It’s something we teach in From Growly Dog to Confident Dog (see the free introductory Masterclass at the bottom of this page!).

Not just reactivity

But this bouncebackability is not only useful when you’re out with your anxious dog.

Some dogs LOVE working, and can do long training sessions and want more.

Some - the super-sensitive ones, perhaps - worry terribly if they think they’ve got something wrong. Then they’re likely to switch off, zone out, abandon the session.

This is not bad or wrong - it’s just a demonstration of their level of worry!

So building up your sessions from tiny to very slightly longer is the way to go here.

When I say ‘tiny’ I mean maybe two repetitions, for two treats.

‘Very slightly longer’ may be five repetitions, for five treats.

And you’ll have to find a way to reassure your dog that when he makes a mistake it’s all simply part of the learning process and you can work through it together.

Resilience is built up slowly, over time.

It’s not a one-off transformation

Look at That!

Here’s where Yannick decides that the dogs he was watching are no threat to him and he doesn’t have to bring out the big guns to make them go away! He simply turns away.

As you’ll see, DISTANCE is a big part of the success of this technique. Nobody can look away from an apparent hazard if it’s nearly on top of them!

Could you look away if a person seemed to be advancing towards you with a weapon?

Giving your anxious dog plenty of space - and in this case the dogs were crossing our path and not heading straight towards us - will enable him to make a sensible decision.

And the beauty of this is that the confidence this brings will build and build, till your previously erupting reactive dog is able to manage the sight of an oncoming dog quite close up.

Softly, softly, catchee monkee!

As the coach of one of our tennis stars, who confessed to being a perfectionist, said: “If you're going to be a perfectionist, be perfect at bouncing back!”

Lots more help for you in this free Masterclass for Growly Dogs

Does your dog hate water?

Some dogs you can’t keep out of water - and some, you can’t get ‘em in!

Cream Coco tries to shake off the black mud!

Both of these present possible problems - your gung-ho dog may dive into a black dyke and come out coated with mud, or more seriously, jump into water covered with deadly blue-green algae.

And your anti-water dog may throw a hissy fit whenever you want to dry his feet or cross a shallow stream.

I can relate to this, because my collie Rollo loved water and I had to keep an eye out for unsuitable wetness he would like to dive into. And then my pup Yannick arrived during a drought, so he didn’t see a puddle for a month, then was horrified when he met one!

[Now I know some people choose to bath their poor tiny puppies as soon as they get them “to get off the breeder’s smell”. I’ve no idea why. And I’m sure this would trigger a fear of water in the pup. I wouldn’t bath a new dog unless he was so disgustingly filthy that there was no other choice.]

So I set about getting my puppy used to water in the gentlest way possible.

Water games!

I get my young pups used to water by putting them in the empty bath (use a bath mat to prevent slipping on those stiff fearful legs) and I scatter kibble and toys about.

Have a game with him and get him out.

Then, another day, add a little water up one end, scatter toys and kibble. He may have to fish some out of the water.

Gradually - keeping this a great game - add a little more water each time (few times a week maybe). 

Yannick was very suspicious of the water to start with and wouldn’t touch any wet kibble. But very quickly he was up to his ankles in the water fishing for food, and now enjoys swimming. 

If you have access to the seaside or lakeside beaches, playing on the beach can be a great “cure” for water fears. They start to follow other dogs or their special people and learn not to fear the water. My dogs have even met some seals this way.

Having said this, I’m happy that none of my present dogs want to do more than paddle in the shallows. I certainly wouldn’t be able to help them if they got in trouble. Many a person has drowned trying to rescue a dog who trots to the shore all by themselves.

If messing about in boats is one of your things, then it’s essential that your puppy learns how to swim and not panic. Though the life-jacket he’ll be wearing will doubtless help. If his fear is extreme, you may find a friendly dog hydrotherapy place where he can splash in warm water in the shallow end before trying anything deeper.

Washing muddy feet

This can easily become a battleground. So I’d rather avoid it. All for a quiet life, me! Why lead with your chin? Just find another way.

Do you really have to wash your dog’s feet? I walk mine through some wet grass after a muddy walk - does the trick nicely. And - great tip for you here - if you play with him in a puddle or stream at the start of the walk, this will partially mudproof him. 

For drying those clean wet paws, start by leaving the towel by the door, and "dry" his feet with a towel EVERY time he comes in, whether wet or not. Just touch the towel to one paw to start with, and reward. Gradually build up, till you can properly rub down all his leggy feathering and get into his paw pads.

Is your dog or your little puppy throwing up more challenges than you anticipated? Watch our free Workshop and find how to change things fast!

Dog thieves beware!

A new Pet Abduction Act law has come into effect from Saturday August 24 in the UK. Under the Pet Abduction Act 2024, anyone found guilty of stealing a pet in England or Northern Ireland will face up to five years in prison, a fine, or both.

HOORAY!!!!!!! 🎉

Up to now, animals have not been considered sentient and theft of an animal would be treated as theft of any other property, like a bike or a teapot.

The government says that “The new law recognises that cats and dogs are not inanimate objects but sentient beings capable of experiencing distress and other emotional trauma when they are stolen from their owners or keepers.” 

Here are some useful references:

Are dogs sentient beings?

Pet Abduction Act 2024

Pet Abduction Bill becomes law

Protect your pooch (good advice, but needs updating for new law)

Puppy smuggling & dog theft

New law affecting dog and cat owners

How to prevent theft

Don’t make it easy for the thief

• Microchip

• Have recent photos

• Secure your property

• Train your dog to recall, or keep him on lead

• Don’t chatter on social media - especially if your dog is a small dog attractive to puppy farmers

• Always know where your dog is, and keep your eyes on him!

Imagine your dog is a wallet stuffed with money. Would you leave it on view and unattended in your car, your garden, on the ground outside a shop??

Isn’t your dog more precious than that wallet?

I’ll look forward to hearing about the first successful prosecution of these vile people. The only snag is that at present the prisons are overflowing, so custodial sentences are not easily given. Though many people get suspended sentences that may prevent repeat offending.

Not in UK?

Here’s your chance to start campaigning in your country, with evidence that these laws exist elsewhere!

Need to brush up your recall?

Here are two ways for you to do this:

If you've gained value from my content or downloaded a free resource, and you'd like to show your appreciation, here's a simple way to support me! Thank you for helping keep me fueled and inspired! Coffee is my creative fuel! 😊

How to avoid reactive dog meltdowns 💥

Working - as I am - with a fearful youngster right now, I can tell you things do improve!

The brilliant thing about Yannick is that he loves people, but he’s going through that adolescent stage of being darkly suspicious of dogs.

Fortunately he likes bitches. 💕 💖

But after a couple of explosions demonstrated that he had developed an issue with strange dogs  - it only started after about a year - I have, of course, been working on it!

And he’s way, way better in a short time.

Adolescence is tough for dogs as well as for human teenagers!

So - what am I doing?

• Look at That

• Counter-conditioning

• Enthusiastic exclamations when we see someone/something: “Ooh look, it’s a nice person/dog! Look!”

• Chatting with the other owner

If he’s comfortable he’ll sit and sweep the road with his tail.

If he’s tense and pulling we look for shelter - a driveway, into a field, cross the road … As a reactive dog-owner, you’ll have these charted on your mental map as part of your walks!

But something that’s helped him enormously is to greet the person and actually meet the dog.

So I wait till the walker is in hailing distance, then ask them “is your dog friendly?”

Usually it’s a yes - I’d have known if not and we’d have been outa there already! Most dogs are friendly enough, though perhaps a bit anxious. If the dog is clearly better kept at a distance, that’s what we do, and turn away.

So a gentle approach and nose greeting is allowed. Count to three and draw your dog away happily. If both are happy, they can have another slightly longer greeting.

These tend to go really well, but it’s a good idea to keep both dogs moving if possible. I’ve discovered that Yannick is very gentle and encouraging with very shy dogs. He knows how they feel!

Now, assuming it’s not a “get outa Dodge” situation, I will engage the “victim” in conversation.

Just standing at a comfortable distance for the dogs and chatting has a marvellously soothing effect. That distance may be 3 - 5 - 8 yards - whatever works.

Slowly the dog can realise this dog/person combo is no threat - after all, you’re smiling and chatty with them! And they with you.

“Familiarity breeds contempt” they do say.

And in this case, familiarity breeds nonchalance and acceptance.

The dogs will soon be sniffing the ground and bored and ready to move on.

If Yannick is very wound up about the approaching dog, and can’t relate to me at all, I do simple counterconditioning: I’m just posting the treats into his mouth, encouraging his head round as much as possible (without lead pressure).

It still works!

Though we may only do that briefly then move away to safety.

But once you’re over this hump, I’d recommend giving the chat thing a try.

Do you use this already? Let me know in the comments.

And for more detail on how to do this counter-conditioning and Look at That, watch our free Masterclass for Growly Dogs great way to get you started managing your dog’s emotional state.