dog behavior

Are you rewarding your dog or bribing him?


Do you know the exact difference between bribery and rewarding? 

Lots of people don’t!

And if you’re new to Brilliant Family Dog, it may be an area that puzzles you.

It can be so annoying when someone sees you reward your dog with a treat, then snootily says, “I don’t BRIBE my dogs. I expect them to do what I ask …”

So I thought that if you already understand this concept, I’d equip you with the science behind it all, so you can respond appropriately to this sort of comment.

If you can be bothered, that is! Some folk are better left to stew in their own ignorance as they absolutely won’t listen to you.  

They’ve made up their mind and don’t want to be confused by the facts.

Though I’m always sorry for their dogs …

 

And if you don’t understand it, then here you go! This will explain this mystery for you.

Bribery vs Reward

When you go to work, does your boss BRIBE you to work?

Or does he REWARD you for work done?

You make a choice whether to turn up to work or not.

  • If you do, you get paid.

  • If you don’t, you don’t!

Simple!

And it’s just as simple for our dogs.

We give them a choice: Will you do this thing?

  • They do it, and get paid.

  • They don’t do it, and they don’t!

 

Just the same!

There is no “commanding”, “ordering”, shouting or yelling. The only difference is that they won’t get the sack as you would if you didn’t turn up to work!

They have another chance to earn that reward next time you ask.


Let’s look at the science behind this!

Quick glossary:  

A CUE is what we say or do to elicit the action we want. So there are vocal cues, physical cues, environmental cues .. It’s not a “command” because - well we don’t “command” our friends.

A MARKER is what you do or say to tell your dog he’s got it right, like Yes, or Good boy.

A REWARD is whatever your dog finds rewarding and is appropriate at that moment, e.g. treat, opening the door to the garden, going for a walk, cuddles, running and chasing, etc. It has been proven beyond any doubt that a response that is rewarded will strengthen and become automatic.


The thing to remember is the sequence. It’s

CUE - MARKER - REWARD.

“Sit. Yes! Here’s your reward.”

Not

REWARD - CUE!

We don’t need to wave food around their noses.

We don’t need to hold food up in the air for them to sit, or on the floor for them to lie down.

(Of course, a little help is sometimes needed to get dogs to lie down when you’re first teaching them a down. Some find it quite challenging. And guidance with food can get them started so they say, “Oh, I SEE! That’s what they want!”)

The exciting thing about all this is that over time, the CUE becomes the REWARD!

Wossat? The CUE becomes the REWARD?

Magic! ✨ 💥

Want to reward me with a coffee, so I keep giving you helpful articles?

Let’s look at an example

What happens when you pick up your dog’s lead?

Excitement? Anticipation of a walk?

The lead is the CUE - it’s a physical cue - and the WALK is the reward.

Your dog knows, from constant repetition, that that’s how it goes.

And it’s not long before picking up the lead becomes the reward in itself! Hence all the lepping about when you touch the lead.

And of course this cue can travel backwards, till you just thinking it may be walk time is enough to get them going!

This is why your dog will SIT on CUE without need for a MARKER or a REWARD.

They’ve got it. They know this gig.

The pleasure centres of the brain light up when they hear the word SIT. It’s been conditioned to mean good things.

Though if your SIT starts to become hesitant or slow or sloppy, then it’s time for a return to training with

CUE - MARKER - REWARD

Can you see now, how you may respond to someone who suggests you’re using bribery? (That’s someone who’s honestly asking and is prepared to listen! You don’t want to waste your energy trying to convert the snooty, bossy, ones.)

And can you see now, if you didn’t get it before, what an incredibly powerful tool this is?

A-a-a-a-nd, why your dog may always do something when you do something? It’s because in some way he’s been rewarded for doing it, even it’s something you don’t want.

Example?

  • Dog leaps about barking at the door.

  • You leap about barking at him.

  • Wheee! What fun! That’s a great reward!

Have a think about this as you go through your day with your dog!

They’re cleverer than we think.

  

And to learn more about how to reach your dog’s mind and get him on the same side as you, watch this free Workshop on getting your dog to LISTEN!

 

 

 

 

Time to get some action with your dog!

I came across this brilliant essay the other day.

It’s a great reminder for us who are always busybusybusy!

 

⏰ We have such great plans …

⏰ We’re going to do such marvels …

⏰ But we just have to get [insert distraction here] done first …

 

That wouldn’t be you, would it, by any chance? ;-) It’s definitely me! 😳

 

Christmas looms over us

I know we’re all busy around Christmas.

But look! The New Year is just round the corner!

What are you going to actually DO this year?

What will you look back on in December 2025 and say, “I DID IT!”

Read this essay below, and then tear up your To-Do List which contains all the things you think might be nice to do and that you know in your heart of hearts you never will do, and decide what’s important to you.

And do that.

[Thanks to Strangest Loop for that!]

In the meantime, enjoy doing your thing - and if it includes your dog, hooray!

He’s waiting for you …

See you next year.

And if you’ve enjoyed everything I’ve given you over this long year and fancy a little gift for me …

 
 

HINT: I drink a lot of coffee! ☕️ 😊

What does my dog see?

On a walk with a non-dog-owning friend recently, my dog froze and stared intently ahead.  

We could see nothing.

So my friend asked, “What’s he staring at?”

This prompted a little dissertation on Vision in the Dog! Perhaps she wished she hadn’t asked by the end of it - but as a multi-cat-owner she was actually very interested. 😊

Dog Vision

The first thing to note is what colours dogs can see.

For us, colour is possibly the first thing we notice. For dogs it has far less importance.

They do see blue and yellow, but the colours aren’t strong. This means that a red toy in green grass is very hard for them to find visually - this is why you’ll see your dog hunting with his nose to locate the item.

Blue or yellow or white or black are much more likely to be spotted by them.

Incidentally, this is why sheepdogs are traditionally black and white. These “colours” are easy to spot at a distance, for us as well as the dogs. Border Collies come in many colours, but bright blue and yellow have not yet appeared as variants!

Altogether the dog’s colour vision is pretty murky.

So what DO dogs see?

Dogs are hunters. And as such, they are attuned to movement. That’s what they see!

We can look at a beautiful vista and see trees, a lake, sky, clouds, grass in the foreground …

Dogs see a bunny twitching his whiskers under a distant tree; a bird landing on a branch; some leaves disturbed by wind or a tiny creature; a grazing animal lifting its head in the field …

As hunters, this is what they need to be able to spot!

Also, dogs are crepuscular.

This means they are most active at dawn and dusk - when their prey is also most active.

Their eyes are adapted to see well in low light. They have something called Tapetum lucidum which reflects what light there is in the eye, and enables them to see well in the dark.

Interestingly, my Border Collie Rollo was afraid of the dark - he couldn’t see well at night. And this is because his eyes were partly blue and he didn’t have this layer of reflective cells behind the retina.  

Dogs’ eyes are perfect for their purpose

So you can see that while dogs’ vision is very different from ours, it’s perfectly suited to what they were designed to do.

Of course, scent is incredibly important too, and 30% of the dog’s brain is devoted to this.

How can you utilise this knowledge now to work with your dog?  

  • Find out which colour toys suit him best, close up and at a distance

  • Observe what he’s likely to be looking at, rather than say he’s staring, or barking, at nothing. Just because we can’t see it, doesn’t mean it isn’t there!

  • Encourage him to use his nose, with scent games, hide and seek, and so on. He’ll find this tiring and most satisfying.

 

By the way, to tell which animals are hunters and which are prey, follow this nice rhyme: 

Eyes to the front, hunt! Eyes to the side, hide!

It applies to birds as well as mammals.

Sea creatures not so much - the shark has eyes on the side of its head and cannot see immediately in front of its face. But they hunt largely by scent, and close in with a Tapetum lucidum ten times stronger than a cat’s - so they really can see well in deep, dark, waters.

Think of some predators now - cats, small and big; dogs/wolves/foxes - all canids; bears; hawks, owls, vultures; frogs, lizards, some snakes.

And prey - mice, rabbits, all small furries; songbirds; fish.

And for a great way to use your dog’s visual ability, teach him a fantastic retrieve! Here you go: 

Counterconditioning doggy fears!

Counterconditioning: IT’S NOT A RACE!

As you may know from personal experience, Counterconditioning and Desensitisation can have marvellous results.

And as you also may know - it takes time!

Don’t be like the reader who told me “I tried that once and it didn’t work”. You need to incorporate it into your daily life with your dog.

You may have read this blogpost of mine from last April:

https://www.brilliantfamilydog.com/blog/do-you-ask-your-dogs-permission-for-handling-him

which explains what to do. In this case I was faced with a fearful dog who did not like his feet being touched at all.

We’ve slowly moved on, just a small bit at a time, and now I am allowed to clip AND grind both Yannick’s front feet!

For the first time he allowed himself to be upended on my lap, when previously it was like trying to wrestle a clawed dragon. He’s since shown that he’d prefer to stay on the ground, so that’s where we do ‘em.

So … we got there in the end!

Smash and Grab!

I was shocked to see a dog trainer’s website recently . . . well, she calls herself a “dog behaviourist, Reactivity and Aggression Specialist” but shows NO qualifications whatever.

Coco steps forward to take his meds

And she said, as one of her benefits, "No need for bulk buying sessions rarely more than two needed"

I dread to think how she transforms a reactive, fearful, and aggressive dog in TWO SESSIONS.

I think we can guess. 😳 💥

And I, for one, am happy to take as long as it takes to bring my dog with me and change his experience of the world for the better.

Want to get started with this?

You can certainly start with The Bucket Game, as shown in the video in this post on treating your dog with respect.

Or you can go much deeper in From Growly Dog to Confident Dog.

Take a look at our free Masterclass for Growly Dogs to get you started!

 
 

 

 

Can your dog bounce back?



It’s a mark of resilience if your dog can look at something he previously found worrying, say “Ho-hum,” and move on.

This is what’s happening in this image above.

Yannick is very worried about strange dogs. Here at this lovely beach we had plenty of space to study the three people and two Shepherds (one a bouncy pup), decide they were not dangerous, and move on.

You’ll see below the moment he decided to turn away.

By the way, this is Leslie McDevitt’s brilliant Look at That! which is a lifesaver for reactive, shy, anxious, “aggressive”, dogs. You can see a video of it in action here. It’s something we teach in From Growly Dog to Confident Dog (see the free introductory Masterclass at the bottom of this page!).

Not just reactivity

But this bouncebackability is not only useful when you’re out with your anxious dog.

Some dogs LOVE working, and can do long training sessions and want more.

Some - the super-sensitive ones, perhaps - worry terribly if they think they’ve got something wrong. Then they’re likely to switch off, zone out, abandon the session.

This is not bad or wrong - it’s just a demonstration of their level of worry!

So building up your sessions from tiny to very slightly longer is the way to go here.

When I say ‘tiny’ I mean maybe two repetitions, for two treats.

‘Very slightly longer’ may be five repetitions, for five treats.

And you’ll have to find a way to reassure your dog that when he makes a mistake it’s all simply part of the learning process and you can work through it together.

Resilience is built up slowly, over time.

It’s not a one-off transformation

Look at That!

Here’s where Yannick decides that the dogs he was watching are no threat to him and he doesn’t have to bring out the big guns to make them go away! He simply turns away.

As you’ll see, DISTANCE is a big part of the success of this technique. Nobody can look away from an apparent hazard if it’s nearly on top of them!

Could you look away if a person seemed to be advancing towards you with a weapon?

Giving your anxious dog plenty of space - and in this case the dogs were crossing our path and not heading straight towards us - will enable him to make a sensible decision.

And the beauty of this is that the confidence this brings will build and build, till your previously erupting reactive dog is able to manage the sight of an oncoming dog quite close up.

Softly, softly, catchee monkee!

 

As the coach of one of our tennis stars, who confessed to being a perfectionist, said: “If you're going to be a perfectionist, be perfect at bouncing back!”

Lots more help for you in this free Masterclass for Growly Dogs

 
 

 

 

Does your dog hate water?

Some dogs you can’t keep out of water - and some, you can’t get ‘em in!

Cream Coco tries to shake off the black mud!

Both of these present possible problems - your gung-ho dog may dive into a black dyke and come out coated with mud, or more seriously, jump into water covered with deadly blue-green algae.

And your anti-water dog may throw a hissy fit whenever you want to dry his feet or cross a shallow stream.

I can relate to this, because my collie Rollo loved water and I had to keep an eye out for unsuitable wetness he would like to dive into. And then my pup Yannick arrived during a drought, so he didn’t see a puddle for a month, then was horrified when he met one!

[Now I know some people choose to bath their poor tiny puppies as soon as they get them “to get off the breeder’s smell”. I’ve no idea why. And I’m sure this would trigger a fear of water in the pup. I wouldn’t bath a new dog unless he was so disgustingly filthy that there was no other choice.]

So I set about getting my puppy used to water in the gentlest way possible.

 
 

Water games!

I get my young pups used to water by putting them in the empty bath (use a bath mat to prevent slipping on those stiff fearful legs) and I scatter kibble and toys about.

Have a game with him and get him out.

Then, another day, add a little water up one end, scatter toys and kibble. He may have to fish some out of the water.

Gradually - keeping this a great game - add a little more water each time (few times a week maybe). 

Yannick was very suspicious of the water to start with and wouldn’t touch any wet kibble. But very quickly he was up to his ankles in the water fishing for food, and now enjoys swimming. 

If you have access to the seaside or lakeside beaches, playing on the beach can be a great “cure” for water fears. They start to follow other dogs or their special people and learn not to fear the water. My dogs have even met some seals this way.

Having said this, I’m happy that none of my present dogs want to do more than paddle in the shallows. I certainly wouldn’t be able to help them if they got in trouble. Many a person has drowned trying to rescue a dog who trots to the shore all by themselves.

If messing about in boats is one of your things, then it’s essential that your puppy learns how to swim and not panic. Though the life-jacket he’ll be wearing will doubtless help. If his fear is extreme, you may find a friendly dog hydrotherapy place where he can splash in warm water in the shallow end before trying anything deeper.


Washing muddy feet

This can easily become a battleground. So I’d rather avoid it. All for a quiet life, me! Why lead with your chin? Just find another way.

Do you really have to wash your dog’s feet? I walk mine through some wet grass after a muddy walk - does the trick nicely. And - great tip for you here - if you play with him in a puddle or stream at the start of the walk, this will partially mudproof him. 

For drying those clean wet paws, start by leaving the towel by the door, and "dry" his feet with a towel EVERY time he comes in, whether wet or not. Just touch the towel to one paw to start with, and reward. Gradually build up, till you can properly rub down all his leggy feathering and get into his paw pads.

Is your dog or your little puppy throwing up more challenges than you anticipated? Watch our free Workshop and find how to change things fast!

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