Teaching your dog impulse control through tug - 10 STEPS

Would you love to be able to play with your dog without toothmarks all over your hands and arms, rips in your clothes, and your shoe-laces being undone?

There is a WAY to teach this! Phew!

Many folk think you just waggle a toy in your dog’s face and all will be sunlight and joy as they gently tug the toy, let go as soon as you ask, and patiently wait to be offered it again.

Well - I have news for you . . . You can get all those things (without the “waggling in the face” bit, which no-one would like) by following a few basic rules. What’s more, those rules will extend to every part of your life with your dog. Dogs’ teeth should never touch human skin, and we have great ways for your dog to learn this - all without force or intimidation (or yelling).

And you can see my puppy waiting for the game to start in the picture above.

Instinctive Drives

The thing is, you are harnessing a very strong instinctive drive in your dog, and turning it to your advantage instead of trying to work against it.

All dogs, whatever the breed or type, have the same instinctive drive - to locate prey, stalk it, chase it, catch it, and kill it.

But dogs have been bred for generations to stop at different points in that sequence - Border Collies, for instance, locate, stalk, and chase sheep, but stop short of grabbing them. Gundogs may be only required to locate the prey, or to bring it back undamaged. Terriers on the other hand are required to simply clear the barn of rats, so they do the whole sequence.

It’s because it’s hardwired that this is the best game of all for your dog, and they learn it really fast!

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In the Brilliant Family Dog Academy we go into detail on just how to teach this, with the full 10 rules - yes, 10 of them that you need to follow - carefully taught, along with personal tuition and troubleshooting for serious mouthers!

How does this teach impulse control to your dog? Well, he has to WAIT to be able to grab the toy. That is good early learning for any puppy who wants something. If he pounces as soon as he sees his prey, rather than lining it up and thinking about it, the bunny will probably hop away. Taking time to assess the situation is vital!

Then he learns to tug with you with equal strength. You don’t want your big dog pulling you over! It’s a game - that means you both enjoy it.

And of course, he learns to release instantly on request .. and not to try and grab it again! That’s when a lot of bitey damage can be done.

If you try to snatch something away from a dog, whether it’s a toy, your shoe, a baby, a kitten - you are stimulating the chase-and-grab instinct. So there’s a way to do this without provoking that reaction - and we can show you!

Not only will you be able to play enjoyable tuggie games with your dog, but you’ll also be able to ask him to give you whatever’s in his mouth if you’re worried he’s picked up something dangerous. Double whammy.

10 Steps for playing Tug

Teach your impulsive dog impulse control

Coco at 15 weeks pulls hard on the tug

1. Choose a toy that is soft on  the mouth, long enough for   you to be able to stand up while playing, keeping teeth at one end and hand at the other. It needs to be narrow enough for your dog to grab it easily. Fleece plaits are excellent, a soft toy like a monkey with long flappy legs, or sheepskin or rabbitskin tug. It’s your toy. You allow your dog to play with it when you want, and only if he keeps to the rules. Because it’s never left on the floor - and the only time your dog gets to play with the tug is with you on the end of it - it becomes a very high-value toy.

2. You are harnessing a very strong instinctive drive in your dog, and turning it to your advantage instead of trying to work against it. All dogs, whatever the breed or type, have the same instinctive drive - to locate prey, stalk it, chase it, pounce, catch it, and kill it. Dogs have been bred to stop at different points in that sequence - Border Collies, for instance, locate, stalk, and chase sheep, but stop short of grabbing them. Terriers on the other hand are required to simply clear the barn of rats, so they do the whole sequence. It’s because it’s hardwired that this is the best game of all for your dog.

3. When playing, always keep the tuggie low on the floor - this is to prevent your pup jumping and injuring himself as he lands. It also keeps the teeth pointing downwards and he’s less likely to grab your hand or sleeve. You’ll get hurt if he’s leaping up to catch the toy.

Coco starts to chase the toy 

4. Start by snaking the tuggie around on the floor, like a rabbit or a rat. Remember, rabbits don’t lollop along and jump into dogs’ mouths!

5. So don’t flap the toy in his face. Wiggle and jerk it around on the floor simulating a rodent’s action - stop, twitch whiskers, run - this is what stimulates the chase instinct and is the signal to play. You never let go of the tug. It may take a while for your puppy, or a dog new to play, to chase - and he may start by pouncing and stamping on the toy. Now encourage that chase and he’ll soon be grabbing it with his mouth.

6. Encourage your dog to grip tight on the tug. Pull just enough to get him pulling back, and if he lets go: “Oh, you lost your dinner!” and start again. Have a great game, but don’t be too rough or hurt his teeth. Growling is part of the game - you can growl too.

7. When you’re ready, relax your pull so the tuggie goes limp (animal now dead) and hold a treat to your dog’s nostrils. Some dogs cannot let go if the tug is taut. As he lets go to eat the treat, put the tuggie behind your back - not past your face! The reward for letting go? Your dog gets to play again!

8. Bring the tug out from behind your back, and tease him a little with it around your waist-height. If he tries to grab it, it goes straight behind your back (never past your face). Repeat till he shows that he wants it but is not jumping or grabbing, then immediately whack it to the floor - game on! He doesn’t have to sit or stay - just show that he wants it, but he’s not going to snatch it. He’ll soon learn that he only gets the toy when it’s whacked on the ground. This is a great protection for small children carrying teddy bears about, and for your sleeves.

Coco waits for the game to start again

9. As you both become more expert at this game - which should become your dog’s top favourite - you can use the cue "Geddit" as you whack the tuggie to the ground, and "Give" as your empty hand approaches his nose. In time you can offer him the toy off the ground, so long as he knows he can never grab it. Sometimes, cover the toy with your hand and watch your dog working out how to hold it without touching you.

10. If his teeth touch your hand or sleeve, your dog will be aware, so shriek to interrupt him, put tug behind your back, and wait for a moment for calm before offering it again. He should now be much more careful. If he’s over the top, put it away till later. He may be too tired to play nicely. If a puppy can’t control his teeth, it usually means he’s overtired and needs a zizz in his crate.

Want to learn more like this?

Get our Guide: 10 Ways to Stop Puppy Biting here!

Have you lost a beloved dog?

We’ve all been drawn into the love of a dog, and for many of us we have also experienced the loss of a dog.

And sometimes that loss is harder to bear than others.

🐾   Perhaps that dog rescued you when you needed help most.

🐾  Perhaps you bonded with each other in a new and magical way.

🐾   Perhaps you looked forward to waking up every morning, to see that joyous smile.

🐾   Maybe your special dog came with special problems that needed a very special dedication to help her overcome them.

Whatever the reason, losing a dog can be heartbreaking and a lot of people struggle to get over it.

They stay sunk in grief. Grief is an important process, and sometimes, if your dog is old or ill, that process starts a long time before you actually lose them.

But after a time, you owe it to yourself and your dog’s memory to face the world without them.

I’ve always found the best insurance is to have multiple dogs! And it wasn’t too long after Rollo died last year aged 15½ that I found I couldn’t live without a Border Collie in my life and set about researching and finding the right puppy for me.

Talking to your dog

Talking to your lost dog is a very good way to help you over the pain. Yes! I talk to Rollo! And he talks to me.

You may feel shy about mentioning the fact that you too talk to your departed dog/s - you may think people will not understand, and laugh at you.

But we very much understand! Don’t be shy here.

New release!

And to take this to another level entirely, I suggest you take a look at this brand new book from Anya Gore, Life and Soul Dog: An Animal Communicator and her Canine Companion share their Experiences and Wisdom, to Help and Inspire you. 

Here is how Anya describes the reason she wrote her book:

“When my beloved dog Zoe passed away, the grief was so intense I could barely breathe. I cried and cried. She’d been ill for some years, and we’d nursed and saved her many a time, but finally she’d reached the end of the road. Towards the end of her life we started some deep conversations, and these have continued since her passing. She led me through the grieving process step by step and taught me much about how to navigate that, and the blessings to be found beyond the sadness…even because of the sadness. She continues to share her messages of wisdom with me and with others too.”

Anya Gore, Author of Life and Soul Dog

And if this book inspires and helps you, it will be marvellous if you can leave a brief review where you purchased it, so that others may be encouraged to learn about Zoe and Anya, and be inspired and helped in their turn.

Note: The coloured pencil drawings on this page and on Anya's book cover are by me. You can find lots more at www.beverleycourtney.com/drawings

What do you EXPECT from your dog?

Let’s face it, a lot of what we consider a problem - or get frustrated about our lack of progress in - is down to our expectation. 

Our expectation of how it SHOULD go rather than a realistic acceptance of what is. 

We start out with our dogs with high hopes! And it’s hard if the dog in question doesn’t appear to be fitting in with our exalted expectations!

Where is the perfect puppy I thought I bought?

Why is this older dog not grateful for being rescued?

It can come as a real shock and a disappointment. 

But just like with children, you get the one you’re given - not necessarily the one you wanted, hoped for, or expected!

I’m in the happy position of starting out with a new puppy. My dear old Rollo made it to 15½. I tried to manage without a Border Collie … but I didn’t last long! So I now have a new puppy of just 10 weeks.

Expectation, of the realistic kind

Now there are some things where expectation works really well!

🐾 I EXPECTED him to sleep through the night from Day 1, and that’s exactly what he’s done.

🐾 I EXPECTED him to housetrain easily, and that’s just what’s happening. He’s asking to be let out, and he’s going to our chosen pee-spot in the garden. He’s managing just fine given the initial ground-rules.

Of course he’s still only a baby and there will be times I’m not on the ball, and it all comes upon him fast … but there’s no room here for frustration or annoyance as I clear up.

He’s doing his level puppy-best! And my goodness, one thing he’s brilliant at is cuddles!

But of course this expectation was tempered, in my case, with knowledge!

Knowledge of what I had to put into the relationship to make it work.

I’ve reared twelve of my own puppies now, and worked with thousands of other folks’ pups. So if you’re starting from scratch you need all the help you can get!

One extreme or the other!

I find that new puppy-owners have expectations that are either unrealistically high, or ridiculously low. At 8 months they’ll tell me, “I knew there’d be puppy biting but now it’s really hurting!” (My puppy never bites - see these posts for help: https://www.brilliantfamilydog.com/blog/why-is-my-dog-biting-me https://www.brilliantfamilydog.com/blog/10-ways-to-stop-puppy-biting)

Or at 11 weeks they complain that this puppy is still chewing things up or making puddles. (I give him lots of things he will enjoy chewing and I follow my Errorless Housetraining protocol: https://www.brilliantfamilydog.com/blog/struggling-to-housetrain-your-puppy)

The puppy will do what a puppy does. Any expectations we have MUST be supported by actually training the little mite what it is that you want!

This is where you’ll get masses of personal help - start with this free Workshop.

See what Cilla had to say about her Fox Terrier:
“Many thanks for being you! and for all you have taught me. My puppy is so different to all my expectations, because of you. Your training truly is brilliant!”

Reactive Dogs

Some of us got landed with a reactive dog - with no warning and little knowledge. Whether this was a rehomed dog or your puppy who has unaccountably gone spooky and apparently aggressive.

You’re here - wisely! - to acquire the knowledge to get things working well. But remember to keep the brakes on frustration while you’re doing it.

As Susan Garrett says, “Your dog’s behavior is a reflection of your training.” Your dog is doing his best!

Does your dog crash the door??

Does opening the door in your house cause a stampede as your dog rushes the door, almost taking the legs out from under you, and crashing any unfortunate person waiting the other side?

So here’s what we’re learning today: Waiting at the door!

The Door Game!

Here’s an example of using Choice Training to change an everyday annoyance many people suffer - a step-by-step lesson for perfect Door Manners!

Watch the video first …

Enjoy that? I suggest you watch it through twice before getting started with your dog.

Now, please don’t expect this to happen in one session!

You may need several, or many, sessions to get it right. But some - puppies especially - can learn this very quickly.

If your dog has an entrenched behaviour of door-barging it may take a bit longer, but you’ll get there!

You noticed, I’m sure, that I didn’t tell the dogs to do anything!

I waited for them to choose.

I ask them sometimes - to prompt them - but I don’t TELL them.

This is a two-way street!

And if there’s a good reason for them doing something different - the ground is soaking wet, for instance and it’s unpleasant to sit (or if they’re Cricket the Whippet who simply finds sitting on a hard floor uncomfortable altogether because of her hound make-up!) then that’s ok by me as long as they wait patiently and don’t rush the door.

That’s the outcome I want.

You have to keep your eyes on the prize! And not get caught up in nonsensical detail.

Now, you do it

Now, once you know THIS, do you begin to see where else Choice Training can affect your daily life with your dog? Can you think of things that annoy you right now which you’ll be able to remove from your life quickly, painlessly - in fact, enjoyably?

It’s limitless!

I’d love to hear how you get on …

Comment below when you’ve given it a go (or several go’s, depending on where you’re at with your dog).

And for lots more training like this, check out the Brilliant Family Dog Academy via this lesson-laden free Workshop!

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“My dog is a xyz, so we can't do this”

[For “xyz” insert Labrador/Spaniel/Terrier/Corgi/Rescue/Husky/Crossbreed/Poodle/ANY DOG!] 

I hear this a LOT.

“What you’re teaching is great, but MY dog is a xyz so we can’t do it.”

It means that the speaker has decided that they don’t want to go to the bother of teaching a new thing. They don’t want the bother of spending time working on what they see as a problem.

And instead of admitting that they are not prepared to do the work - they shovel the blame onto their poor untrained dog! As if it’s all his fault!

Now, there’s no doubt that there are differences between breeds, it’s also true that every dog arrives as he is - untrained, untaught, uneducated. And it’s up to us to do the work if we expect him to live in our home and follow our inexplicable human rules!

Every dog is an individual

And while it’s true that dogs vary between breeds, it’s even truer that there is more variation between individuals than between breeds.

This is a well-known fact amongst dog professionals.

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We are not dealing with a category of dogs.

We are dealing with our own individual dog.

And its individual owner!

How did you choose your dog?

Tell me - when you chose your dog, did you possibly think “Well he’s a Sighthound/Sheepdog/whatever, so I won’t have to bother about chasing/herding/any-other-issue, because it will be impossible to teach against his genetics.” Did that thought ever cross your mind?

I expect not.

I expect you chose your dog because you thought him gorgeous - and didn’t abandon hope of dealing with these issues till they manifested. Then everyone told you, “He’s a gundog/terrier/guardian/any-dog, so what do you expect?”

The great animal trainer Bob Bailey said,

“Training often fails because people expect way too much of the animal and way too little of themselves.” 

We can have the most wonderful companion dog.

We can adapt our training to suit his breed characteristics - to give him an outlet for his instinctive drives - to accommodate as far as possible what he’s been bred to do.

But when it comes down to it, it’s up to US to do the teaching.

And that means we shouldn’t be making excuses and blaming our dog for our own shortcomings!

You chose your dog.

You owe it to him to give him the best life possible. Let’s get teaching!

Want to make a start? Get our free email course to resolve common “problems” and enjoy a new way of looking at life with your dog.

RESOURCES

 How Much Does A Dog's Breed Predict His Behaviour?

 5 Dog Breed Myths

“Designer Dogs”: What Are They Really Made Of?

Does your dog use the stairs safely?

This is an especially important question for new puppy-owners! But we could all look to make sure we’re avoiding accidents - to us as well as to our dogs - by teaching them right from the start.

First of all, your stairs are safer if carpeted, but this isn’t essential. A mat or some sort of non-slip surface at the bottom of the stairs is important, especially as at the foot of most staircases there is a sharp turn. Puppies are particularly vulnerable to injury on slippery corners!

First of all, you want to make sure the stairs are gated, so there’s no free access to them without you being there to supervise.

And this is how you start: 

1. At the bottom of the stairs, your dog is on lead

2. Place a treat on the first step.

3. Let your dog eat it then place a treat on the next step up.

4. Step up beside your dog as he ascends, step by step, treat by treat.

5. Slow and steady till you get to the top!

If your puppy is freaking out, just do two steps then lift him off. Work at this gradually till you can step all the way up. This will take as long as it takes.

Now you’re at the top! 🎉

So how to get down again?!

Use exactly the same method. You may need to keep the lead shorter now (without putting pressure on his neck, of course!) to make sure your dog doesn’t try to race down.

And it’s super-important to ensure there is a treat not only on the bottom step, but also on the mat at the foot of the stairs. You want to ensure your dog always steps all the way down and doesn’t leap off early! .. as you’ll see Coco does correctly in the two videos on this page.

Next stage

Gradually, you’ll be able to remove the lead from the exercise, and space the treats out a little more (though be very slow to remove the last two on the way down!).

And once you know your dog has got this, you’ll be able to let him go up and down on his own.

You’ll need to find other stairs for him to get used to as well - concrete stairs, other sorts of house stairs, metal stairs, log stairs …

Once you’re both expert at this, you can have some fun together, going up and down stairs:

Coco learns stairs

Safety for us!

Incidentally, there’s a lot of nonsense talked about who should go through a door first. Real nonsense.

Certainly, your dog shouldn’t barge through doors, but once they can wait for permission to go through, I always send mine through first. I don’t want an excited dog to take my legs out!

Same goes for stairs.

I always send my dogs up or down stairs ahead of me. It’s simple commonsense!

No need to get tangled up in dominance nonsense.

Stair agility!

Once your dog is comfortable on the stairs, you can develop his balance skills and have fun with some stair games

Here’s a video to give you some ideas - see how much Coco is enjoying this!

And for lots more answers to your questions, get our free email course here!

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