Sniffer dogs rule!

We all know how our dogs love sniffing!

It’s an essential activity for them.

While we see in technicolour and smell only poorly, dogs see a very limited range of colours (spotting movement is their thing, as befits hunters) but they smell in technicolour!

Over 30% of the dog’s brain is devoted to scent.

A dog’s nose has about 300 million olfactory receptor cells that send signals to the brain, compared with our roughly 6 million, making it 50 times better at scent detection than us!

And that’s why it’s so important we give them plenty of sniffing time on walks. Only when there’s recent snow on the ground, or mud, can we see all the footprints that dogs “see” ALL the time!

Putting the noses to work

So it’s great to see dogs making a niche for themselves in so many of the emergency services - simply by using their noses.

There are:

Police dogs for tracking criminals and searching property, and many of these dogs are trained for specific targets - like money, or drugs.

It’s similar for customs dogs, and they need to sniff out foodstuffs and animals too.

Old dogs who can no longer run or jump can still enjoy using their noses. This dog has only three legs but is enjoying her work!

Search and Rescue dogs are famous for finding lost people in the wilds - also for locating buried earthquake victims.

Explosives dogs in the army (I always worry about this one 💥 😳 )

Missing persons location.

Medical alert dogs can scent the changes that presage an attack and enable the patient to seek help, meds, or safety.

Then there are medical detection dogs who can locate cancers, for example.

Water rescue dogs can scent a body in the water fathoms below their boat.

New ventures for dogs’ noses!

But did you know that there are also dogs finding gas leaks and water leaks, sometimes searching hundreds of miles of underground pipes?

And dogs locating wildlife to aid in programmes for the reintroduction of endangered species, and preventing poaching? And also to locate for removal non-native species who are endangering resident populations.

There are some really interesting examples here:

Water Leakage

Meet our paw-some leakage detective

Dogs sniffing out gas leaks

Charity welcomes wildlife detection dog

How Dogs Can Help Find and Protect Endangered Animals

Working Dogs for Conservation

Woody is saving the Puffins on Rathlin Island!

What is the limit for dogs’ scenting abilities?

There seems to be no limit! Some sniffer dogs are trained on upwards of forty different scents. There are always new applications being explored for dogs to discover and tell us poor humans where or what they can smell so easily.

And did you know that a dog’s nose is as individual as a fingerprint is for us? Some people are using a database to help find lost dogs by their nose-print.

Dogs truly are marvels!

Want to start your dog searching with his nose and finding things for you? Here’s a post to get you going, finding your lost car-keys in the house

 

Does your dog hate water?

Some dogs you can’t keep out of water - and some, you can’t get ‘em in!

Cream Coco tries to shake off the black mud!

Both of these present possible problems - your gung-ho dog may dive into a black dyke and come out coated with mud, or more seriously, jump into water covered with deadly blue-green algae.

And your anti-water dog may throw a hissy fit whenever you want to dry his feet or cross a shallow stream.

I can relate to this, because my collie Rollo loved water and I had to keep an eye out for unsuitable wetness he would like to dive into. And then my pup Yannick arrived during a drought, so he didn’t see a puddle for a month, then was horrified when he met one!

[Now I know some people choose to bath their poor tiny puppies as soon as they get them “to get off the breeder’s smell”. I’ve no idea why. And I’m sure this would trigger a fear of water in the pup. I wouldn’t bath a new dog unless he was so disgustingly filthy that there was no other choice.]

So I set about getting my puppy used to water in the gentlest way possible.

Water games!

I get my young pups used to water by putting them in the empty bath (use a bath mat to prevent slipping on those stiff fearful legs) and I scatter kibble and toys about.

Have a game with him and get him out.

Then, another day, add a little water up one end, scatter toys and kibble. He may have to fish some out of the water.

Gradually - keeping this a great game - add a little more water each time (few times a week maybe). 

Yannick was very suspicious of the water to start with and wouldn’t touch any wet kibble. But very quickly he was up to his ankles in the water fishing for food, and now enjoys swimming. 

If you have access to the seaside or lakeside beaches, playing on the beach can be a great “cure” for water fears. They start to follow other dogs or their special people and learn not to fear the water. My dogs have even met some seals this way.

Having said this, I’m happy that none of my present dogs want to do more than paddle in the shallows. I certainly wouldn’t be able to help them if they got in trouble. Many a person has drowned trying to rescue a dog who trots to the shore all by themselves.

If messing about in boats is one of your things, then it’s essential that your puppy learns how to swim and not panic. Though the life-jacket he’ll be wearing will doubtless help. If his fear is extreme, you may find a friendly dog hydrotherapy place where he can splash in warm water in the shallow end before trying anything deeper.

Washing muddy feet

This can easily become a battleground. So I’d rather avoid it. All for a quiet life, me! Why lead with your chin? Just find another way.

Do you really have to wash your dog’s feet? I walk mine through some wet grass after a muddy walk - does the trick nicely. And - great tip for you here - if you play with him in a puddle or stream at the start of the walk, this will partially mudproof him. 

For drying those clean wet paws, start by leaving the towel by the door, and "dry" his feet with a towel EVERY time he comes in, whether wet or not. Just touch the towel to one paw to start with, and reward. Gradually build up, till you can properly rub down all his leggy feathering and get into his paw pads.

Is your dog or your little puppy throwing up more challenges than you anticipated? Watch our free Workshop and find how to change things fast!

Dog thieves beware!

A new Pet Abduction Act law has come into effect from Saturday August 24 in the UK. Under the Pet Abduction Act 2024, anyone found guilty of stealing a pet in England or Northern Ireland will face up to five years in prison, a fine, or both.

HOORAY!!!!!!! 🎉

Up to now, animals have not been considered sentient and theft of an animal would be treated as theft of any other property, like a bike or a teapot.

The government says that “The new law recognises that cats and dogs are not inanimate objects but sentient beings capable of experiencing distress and other emotional trauma when they are stolen from their owners or keepers.” 

Here are some useful references:

Are dogs sentient beings?

Pet Abduction Act 2024

Pet Abduction Bill becomes law

Protect your pooch (good advice, but needs updating for new law)

Puppy smuggling & dog theft

New law affecting dog and cat owners

How to prevent theft

Don’t make it easy for the thief

• Microchip

• Have recent photos

• Secure your property

• Train your dog to recall, or keep him on lead

• Don’t chatter on social media - especially if your dog is a small dog attractive to puppy farmers

• Always know where your dog is, and keep your eyes on him!

Imagine your dog is a wallet stuffed with money. Would you leave it on view and unattended in your car, your garden, on the ground outside a shop??

Isn’t your dog more precious than that wallet?

I’ll look forward to hearing about the first successful prosecution of these vile people. The only snag is that at present the prisons are overflowing, so custodial sentences are not easily given. Though many people get suspended sentences that may prevent repeat offending.

Not in UK?

Here’s your chance to start campaigning in your country, with evidence that these laws exist elsewhere!

Need to brush up your recall?

Here are two ways for you to do this:

If you've gained value from my content or downloaded a free resource, and you'd like to show your appreciation, here's a simple way to support me! Thank you for helping keep me fueled and inspired! Coffee is my creative fuel! 😊

How to avoid reactive dog meltdowns 💥

Working - as I am - with a fearful youngster right now, I can tell you things do improve!

The brilliant thing about Yannick is that he loves people, but he’s going through that adolescent stage of being darkly suspicious of dogs.

Fortunately he likes bitches. 💕 💖

But after a couple of explosions demonstrated that he had developed an issue with strange dogs  - it only started after about a year - I have, of course, been working on it!

And he’s way, way better in a short time.

Adolescence is tough for dogs as well as for human teenagers!

So - what am I doing?

• Look at That

• Counter-conditioning

• Enthusiastic exclamations when we see someone/something: “Ooh look, it’s a nice person/dog! Look!”

• Chatting with the other owner

If he’s comfortable he’ll sit and sweep the road with his tail.

If he’s tense and pulling we look for shelter - a driveway, into a field, cross the road … As a reactive dog-owner, you’ll have these charted on your mental map as part of your walks!

But something that’s helped him enormously is to greet the person and actually meet the dog.

So I wait till the walker is in hailing distance, then ask them “is your dog friendly?”

Usually it’s a yes - I’d have known if not and we’d have been outa there already! Most dogs are friendly enough, though perhaps a bit anxious. If the dog is clearly better kept at a distance, that’s what we do, and turn away.

So a gentle approach and nose greeting is allowed. Count to three and draw your dog away happily. If both are happy, they can have another slightly longer greeting.

These tend to go really well, but it’s a good idea to keep both dogs moving if possible. I’ve discovered that Yannick is very gentle and encouraging with very shy dogs. He knows how they feel!

Now, assuming it’s not a “get outa Dodge” situation, I will engage the “victim” in conversation.

Just standing at a comfortable distance for the dogs and chatting has a marvellously soothing effect. That distance may be 3 - 5 - 8 yards - whatever works.

Slowly the dog can realise this dog/person combo is no threat - after all, you’re smiling and chatty with them! And they with you.

“Familiarity breeds contempt” they do say.

And in this case, familiarity breeds nonchalance and acceptance.

The dogs will soon be sniffing the ground and bored and ready to move on.

If Yannick is very wound up about the approaching dog, and can’t relate to me at all, I do simple counterconditioning: I’m just posting the treats into his mouth, encouraging his head round as much as possible (without lead pressure).

It still works!

Though we may only do that briefly then move away to safety.

But once you’re over this hump, I’d recommend giving the chat thing a try.

Do you use this already? Let me know in the comments.

And for more detail on how to do this counter-conditioning and Look at That, watch our free Masterclass for Growly Dogs great way to get you started managing your dog’s emotional state.

A new puppy PLUS a reactive dog: can it work?

I had this query from a reader recently, whose heart is clearly in the right place:

“I have a reactive/aggressive 8 year old I did not have from a puppy. As she has gotten older she has calmed down a bit however, we do not trust her around other dogs and do not even try to socialise her. She will cry, whine and sometimes growl which can be embarrassing.

I have longed for a dog that I can take everywhere with me and can get along with all dogs and people. I am considering getting another dog that is a little bit older than a young pup.

We do plan on introducing them slowly with the new dog being outside and our older dog inside watching through the window, then keeping them behind closed doors in the house etc.

One of my main worries is jealousy and the new dog picking up bad habits from the older dog. I also worry around the unfairness of walking them separately or is this something they will both quickly adjust to?

How do I make sure the new dog does not being aggressive also?”

Lots of questions here! And a few misconceptions too. Here was my reply to this caring owner:

“Well done on helping your dog get calmer - but don’t be embarrassed when your dog shows she’s uncomfortable! She’s giving you information. If others don’t understand, that’s not your problem - they will be impressed by your care.

New dog - I think you’d be better off with an 8wo pup. You’ll bring out the maternal instincts in your resident dog and she won’t see this baby as competition. Follow this article on introducing a puppy to a reactive dog to ensure a safe introduction and development.

Also, the young puppy will sleep so much that you’ll have plenty of time to give to your adult dog!

Walking separately is not unfair - most dogs prefer this undiluted time with their special person. I have four dogs and they all get their special times of solo walking with me.

There are a number of resources - from free to premium - on www.brilliantfamilydog.com/blog/how-best-can-you-help-your-dog-learn to help you. Do take advantage of them!”

As to how to introduce the older dog to the new puppy - and this goes for ANY older dog and puppy, not just a reactive dog - there is valuable information in that introduction article.

You can’t get a puppy and just chuck it into a multi-dog household and let it sink or swim. The outcomes are most unlikely to be what you’d like! There are plenty of parallels with children whose parents abdicate responsibility and the children rear themselves alongside their equally unguided peers. This can lead them down many unwanted paths . . .

So start as you mean to continue! Lots of 1-1 attention for each dog individually, and the puppy is reared more or less separately. After all, a puppy has a completely different physical timetable, with different requirements for training and exercising, so it makes sense.

Having a multi-dog household with the different characteristics of every dog within it is enchanting. They are so different!

And they need to be allowed to be. And not regarded as a pack.

Here’s a good place to start with your new pup:

Want a step-by-step guide to everything you need to know about your new puppy? Get New Puppy! here and start on the right paw!

Those early months are SOOOO important!

Let me know how you get on.

Is it your dog who needs to change, or is it you?

You can lead a horse to water, as the saying goes, but you cannot make it drink.

I have to keep this always in mind when someone asks my advice.

Sometimes they are pleading, desperate for help. It’s their last chance, they tell me. Things have to change. They need help now!

So I give it.

Either in the form of personal advice, or by encouraging them to enrol in one of my many programs.

Then what happens?

Well, of course, some avail of the fountain of knowledge 😊, get great results, and get their problems solved.

We love students who are prepared to put in the work! Like these:

“Many thanks - you have been a brilliant help and a breath of fresh air of information!”

“I've found your emails very helpful and am trying hard to implement.”

“I've been following your steps for four weeks now. Thank you very much for your guidance! It's been very helpful in sorting out Fitz's problems. You've been so helpful and I cannot thank you enough.”

“Your guidelines have been very helpful and reassuring for us to keep at this. Thank you.”

But it’s not a magic bullet.

Nothing happens unless the owner changes.

It’s not the dog who needs to change - it’s you!

As Wayne Dyer put it so succinctly:

When you change the way you look at things, the things you look at change.

What about those who don’t want to work?

As you know, I’m passionate about improving the lot of dogs.

And that means improving their home situation. It’s not a question of teaching the dog without referencing the whole environment. (That’s why residential training is a big no-no and doesn’t work.)

There’s so much misinformation about, and nobody can be blamed for doing it wrong when they were following guidance and trying their best. Once they arrive with me, we have a clean slate. We start from where we are.

But what I find very sad is when someone comes in desperation, asking for help. They are given appropriate help . . . and that’s the last I see of them.

As the Irish have it, some people don’t have the manners they were born with!

There’s never any excuse for not responding - even if it’s a Thanks but no thanks.

People who enrol in a program, ask for specific help - which is given to them in spades - then .. disappear.

Possibly worse are those who come back a year, two years later, with the exact same issue they first wanted help on. Only now the problem is entrenched. I think, “Why oh why didn’t you deal with this when we gave you the answers?!”

Oceans of help are washing over you, and you aren’t even getting wet.

And of course the reason is that they thought it was a problem with the dog, and not a problem with themselves.

They thought that just asking the question, getting it off their chest, would be the solution.

They didn’t factor in that THEY needed to do the work!

If you leave it alone, it won’t magically improve by itself.

We have to put the work in!

Are Agility World Champions just dogs who enjoy jumping? No! They are dogs who have handlers who work with them tirelessly to maximise their potential (and as long as the dog is enjoying it, that’s great.)

What about tracking dogs, like the police use? Search & Rescue dogs? Are they just dogs who enjoy mooching about sniffing things? No! They’re trained professionally, to an extraordinarily high standard. Someone’s life may depend on it.

Easy dogs

It’s true that some dogs are easier than others. They slip into the household and comply with everything without demur.

But most dogs (like most children, it must be said!) need quantities of teaching to shape them into the person we want to live with.

And this is where you come in.

Just like with those children, you can’t hand them a book and let them get on with it!

It’s hands-on, everyday, one-to-one, relationship-building and teaching.

Zig Ziglar has it well:

“If you are not willing to learn, no one can help you.

If you are determined to learn, no one can stop you.” 

Do you genuinely need help?

If you do, then you’ve arrived in the right place! And you’re very welcome.

There’s nothing I and my team like better than helping someone turn their life around with their dog.

And so often, it’s changing the way the owner views things (as Wayne Dyer says, above) that makes all the difference!

“Just acknowledging she's reactive on the leash, and still a wonderful dog was the best place to start for us.“

“I found it hard to accept that I did not have an easygoing 'normal' dog but once I accepted her for what she is it felt easier.”

“I've watched your free Workshop three times it's so good. Working now on training myself!”

So - are you determined to learn? Welcome to Brilliant Family Dog!

You can choose from free courses, premium video courses, books or audiobooks direct from the author. We have something to suit every learning style!

See you soon . . .